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Dana Ayrapetyan
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Restaurant Marea, Manhattan, New York, NY

Posted by Dana Ayrapetyan in Restaurant Times
May 19, 2010

It was a dreary, frigid February, and I found myself in desperate need of a getaway to get rid of the winter blues.

The perfect destination: New York, New York. When traveling to the Big Apple, the average tourist expects glam, couture, an unparalleled nightlife, and the expenses to match. In a city that has so much to offer, where you eat becomes as important as where you shop. From the outset of your arrival, Marea – meaning “tide” in Italian – offers a mystical experience that derives from its location across the street from the dark, yet romantically illuminated Central Park South. Ornamented with subtle yet opulent décor and subdued lighting, the dining room suggests a posh, exclusive formality at first. But the guest is pleasantly surprised to realize that the atmosphere is warm, the mood is relaxed, and the prices are laid back.

The lounge area is styled with carved Egyptian onyx, imitating waves in its layers. The crudo/antipasti bar serves as an aesthetically pleasing waiting area, but also offers a raw selection of pasta, fish, meat, and various sides. The dining room floors and walls are made of lacquered rosewood, and your eyes are drawn to the seashells hand-dipped in silver lined along the windowsills. Unveiled in 2009 during the recession, a time when nobody could pragmatically foresee its success, Marea has proven to be a hotspot. This was confirmed first-hand as I turned around to see Ms. Barbara Walters enjoying her dinner directly behind my seat. Founded by chef Michael White, who is also responsible for the beloved, trendy New York restaurants Convivio and Alto, Marea specializes in seafood with an Italian touch. Taking into account the variety and quality of ingredients, the prices are comprehendible and even acceptable, with fish flown in from around the globe and displayed across ice on trolley carts for the dinner guests’ inspection. Its seafood menu features “Crudo Al Taglio” – a selection of sliced raw and shellfish ranging from fifteen to 25 dollars, including a bigeye toro tartare, rare clam selections, lobster, Nova Scotia octopus and various Pacific fish. The oysters and caviar enjoy their own rich and somewhat ostentatious section where Royal Sterling caviar can rob your pocket of 90 dollars but only fill your appetite with one ounce; it would be advised, both for your wallet and for the sake of avoiding superfluous dives into the eating etiquette of the trendy, to skip this “Ostriche e Vongole & Caviale” part of the menu and move on down to the antipasti.

The antipasti selection includes, but is not limited to, lobster and butternut squash soup with porcini mushrooms (delicious), as well as Nova Scotia lobster topped with basil seeds, white eggplant and warm burrata cheese (decadent and also delectable). The hand-made pasta menu does not disappoint either; my most memorable dish was the “Mezzaluna” – surprisingly light, yet filling, lobster ravioli with chanterelles and asparagus. As a seafood phenomenon, speaking about Marea’s meat dishes is a fruitless task. The must-try on the fish menu remains the “Branzino” bass, served with roasted brussel sprouts and marinated salsify, otherwise known as the “octopus plant.” If you are fortunate enough to arrive at a seasonally appropriate time for this dish, you will enjoy the taste of succulent freshness, as though cooked minutes after being caught. Another memorable dish is the “Seppia,” a grilled Mediterranean cuttlefish brilliantly paired with oregano, escarole leaves, and olives, all in a livornese (tomato and basil) sauce for 32 dollars. It is important to keep in mind that Marea does offer an 89 dollar Four Course Prix Fixe for its Crudo, Ostriche, or Antipasto/Pasta or Carne(meat)/Dolce(dessert). As the taste of the last morsel is no less important than the first, one must experience a finessed finale to the meal to attain a true sense of its completion. Marea agrees, and in conjunction with your quintessential sorbet and cheese dessert menu, I recommend indulging in the Torrone (nougat) gelato served with black cocoa cake and sour cherry compote. In addition, the hundreds of wine bottles, particularly whites from Italy and a fine selection of dessert wines, will ensure that your thirst is as quenched as your hunger is satisfied. Michael White has once again proven himself to be an exquisite chef and a successful businessman.

Should you have an opportunity to wine and dine in good ol’ New York, Marea can be found at 240 Central Park South.

Bon Appetit! Or rather, in Italian: Buon Appetito!

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Posted Comments

Posted 16.09.2011 03:24
When Marea opened in May of 2009 the seascape of high-end Italian cuisine was redefined.above all else, style, Marea has made a splash on the New York restaurant scene. 240 Central Park South, New York, NY .
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Posted 14.09.2011 06:57
When Marea opened in May of 2009 the seascape of high-end Italian cuisine was redefined.above all else, style, Marea has made a splash on the New York restaurant scene. 240 Central Park South, New York, NY .
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Posted 14.09.2011 06:56
When Marea opened in May of 2009 the seascape of high-end Italian cuisine was redefined.above all else, style, Marea has made a splash on the New York restaurant scene. 240 Central Park South, New York, NY .
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Posted 20.06.2011 08:25
When Marea opened in May of 2009 the seascape of high-end Italian cuisine was redefined.above all else, style, Marea has made a splash on the New York restaurant scene. 240 Central Park South, New York, NY .
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